Frequently asked questions for Advanced climbing

No. Carry Mail-ons or use Quick draw or a Carabineer. Someone else can retrieve it later. Secondly make sure to leave at least 1 QD or carabiner below the one you are rappelling off, to ensure redundancy. Clean rest of the QDs.

No, climbing is a task that requires utmost concentration, especially when doing a lead climb.

The total force per bolt for an "equalized" anchor is half the load.

6mm or above

Yes, recommended for Bangalore routes where there is a high chance for the alternative to EDK, such as Double fisherman knot, to get stuck in cracks.

Do NOT clip one carabiner into another. Remove a carabineer from one end of second QD and clip in the dog bone into the carabiner from the first QD.

It is not advisable since this can cause cross-loading of the carabiner to happen.

Cross-loading is when a carabiner is loaded in the minor axis. Since the tensile strength on major axis is almost 3 times that of minor axis.

Both are equally safe. Though, according to some, extended allows for less jerky rappels and gives easier control of the friction hitch.

It is advised to use the inside of the leg loop and away from the buckle, since the carabineer might cause the buckle to get loose. This might undo the leg loop.

Reepschnur Method.

Important: Always back up the setup with a figure of eight on a bight in the non rappelling rope, the noose of the figure of eight gets a carabiner that clips into the rappelling rope.

The carabiner which is at the loose end (the carabineer has more space to move) of the dog bone goes into hanger. This is to prevent the carabiner from levering the hanger in case of fall.

The climber who does the first ascent gets to name the route. Hence it depends on the climber and the local nomenclature traditions among other things.

Tandem rappel

It refers to the fact that rope can at times cause a piece of protection to get dislodged. This can be prevented by extending the piece using QD or slings. "Due to the traversing nature of the route the piece walked out of the crack"

It is an advanced skill. Please contact me to learn it or ask an experienced climber or guide.

Use belay loop (if using carabiner) or tie in loops (if only rope) and tie in to a ground anchor. DO NOT use haul loops or other, you risk serious injuries.

It is a rope that does not take up/absorb water. Since that cause the strength to reduce. These are more expensive than the normal ones.

ALWAYS. Belaying, Lead climbing, Multi pitches, Giving unsolicited advice (in that order)

Mr Pronto does it. For more aggressive shoes contact senior climbers for contacts of skilled individuals.

Yes and No. The climber should check the protection before clipping in.

Both have their pros and cons.

Key Lock:

• Is hook free, so will slide into bolt if not clipped in completely.

Wire Gate:

• Pro -Relatively lighter, if you are carrying a lot of gear, the weight reduction will play a role.

• Con - Contains a hook at the gate closing, which can get snagged while bolting in.

It is recommended to use mini-pear locking carabiners or offset D locking carabiners. As opposed to HMS locking carabiners. You could also use oval locking carabiners.

They are the same size as those 'quick-draw' carabiners, but with straight gate and locking mechanism.

Firstly, whatever you choose DO NOT do it directly on hangers. Secondly, given the rock type around Bangalore (Granite) with its sharp character, it is bad for ropes in general. Hence, rappelling down is recommended to save the rope.